Three Saints Bishops Fancy Perry

OK, this is my last review for Winchester Real Ale and Cider Festival 2014. I promise. I do hope that you can see why they deserved to be published - each of them a treat! And this last one is no different (although it is a bit if a fix). I had tried all the others on offer and this is the best perry of this evening! Apologies if you thought I would finish with an absolute stinker... I opted not to:-) Not that there were any truly bad ciders on offer - okay, let me frame that by saying that there was an apple/pear 'pyder' that tasted of orange squash and another which was very sweet indeed. But out of 20 or so ciders and perries I can only take my hat off to whoever put that little lot together!

As much as I disapprove of the nonsense that is CAMRA APPLE - with its clique and unelected committee, self pats on the back and squabbling about the most irrelevant of issues (like pasteurisation) - cider and perry features more and more at festivals around the UK. And CAMRA are spearheading this. It surely must be only a matter of time before CAMRA start holding cider led festivals. No, wait... sorry. What I should have said was that, if they had any sense, it can only be a matter of time... I do not have any expectations in reality (but wouldn't it be good!) Still, CAMRA are a big organisations and as a large stone it has certainly gathered some moss in its time. And no, I do not ask your pardon for abusing that particular saying:-)

Now, onto my notes for Bishops Fancy. Three Saints don't have a website to browse, but searching through the Welsh Cider and Perry Association (they are a Welsh producer) I can see that they are a full juice, traditional company based in Monmouthshire. It also says 'using rare Welsh perry pears and cider apples. Not sure if I could name any apples or pears that are unique to Wales... but I am sure there will be some. Anyway, this is about the perry isn't it:

The perry is medium dry, fairly bright and pale in colour. It has (what I noted as) a flowery smell, albeit a touch light in the nose. I have also written a 'Tappy smell' - though I really cannot make out what on earth I was going on about. Over this though I have written 'nice' so, with several months between the tasting and now, lets go with that.

The flavour confirms the floral pear taste. It is very pleasant in the mouth and does taste a little stronger than its 4.6% abv. I would say this is an all round perry - it could be more individual, but then it is very pleasant as it is. The medium dry is accurate and I would be quite happy that this may not be back sweetened - as pears contain sorbitol which is unfermentable.

The aftertaste is moderate in length and the note I have against that is satisfying.

At the end of the day, whether I can recall what the notes say or not, it is the score that matters. With 76/100 this goes down as one of the better examples of the art of perry. A bronze apple (which, thinking about it doesn't sound quite right for a perry:-)

Ciderniks Kingston Black Cider

Happy new year to all! OK, starting the new year by still catching up on reviews from March 2014 is a bit daft but there you go. These cider should not be missed! There is only a couple more months to wait until the next Winchester Beer Festival, although I have no idea yet whether I will be able to wangle sufficient brownie points to make another trip (would be my third time I think).

Moving on to a cider with a more familiar name, but staying with Ciderniks, we have a Kingston Black single variety cider. There were actually two of these at Winchester, but this is the drier of the two and I have already tried (and reviewed) the New Forest Cider version.

I have tried quite a few Kingston Black SV ciders over the years, I am not entirely sure that there is anything left to say about it that I haven't already said more than once. So let me tell you a little about Ciderniks instead.

Based in Berkshire, Ciderniks is a small scale traditional cidermaker who produces a fair few different blends (though I am not sure if they are all available in the same year). They pride themselves on making cider with just juice - no sulphites, additives or anything else... well, they say no sweeteners too, but this cider is most definitely sweetened! Still, websites are a pain to keep up to date eh! and I don't believe that Ciderniks should be seen as anything less than a good, honest cidermaking company that uses traditional methods (and the non sulphiting route is too fundamentalist even for me!!).

Once again, this is a dark golden and flat - exactly as I would expect both from Ciderniks and from the mightly Kingston Black. It does seem to be quite clear, although this could well drop as clear as this without filtering (though sometimes unfiltered Kingston Black cider can be quite 'chewy'). It is described as a medium - which must be sweetened or keeved (and you would not put a keeved cider into a bag in box!)

The smell is exactly as I expected; fruity, tannic and typically Kingston Black. The taste, although sweetened (sensibly, although perhaps a touch more than medium for me) is precisely Kingston Black - tannins, sharpness and a bunch of cider apples! The tannin is funky too, giving it a bit of a farmyard feel. Spot on.

The aftertaste is medium in length and nice.

So, this is an unadulterated, straight example of a single variety Kingston Black from a cidermaker who does not like to adulterate or alter his wares. A great example if you want to see what Kingston Black tastes like on its own. Albeit a sweet version.

A score of 72 sees Ciderniks with another bronze apple from me. Well done!

Handmade Cider Rough Diamond Cider

You will have to pardon me for clearing the decks a little by drawing back on unpublished reviews from earlier in 2014. Not that these reviews are not great... far from it - these are some of the best of traditional cider found in the UK. However, in an effort to keep the reviews moving on I feel they should be completed and added to the list on Cider Pages.

Finding a draught cider from Handmade Cider is quite a thing for me - I have some bottles of their to try shortly and it is going to be interesting to compare notes on them all. You see, often producers treat their bottle cider differently from their draught - on tap is normally unfiltered, unpasteurised and still whereas bottles may be all of the above - bottle conditioned etc. etc.

This isn't a bad thing, or indeed in any way dishonest - it is different. However, the profile of the cider changes and makes it interesting for us drinkers. We should celebrate this - not seek to have everything taste the same... its what makes cider so exciting!

If I am going to be brutal, this facet of cider makes all cider blogs and reviews somewhat redundant... or at least more hard work than we can give it. A cider that I tried three years ago (with the exception of things like Magners etc.) will not taste the same now. OK, there is a grey area... I am not convinced this rule applies to Westons or Thatchers in the same way that it doesn't apply to Bulmers, Magners etc. Anywhere that talks of 'recipes' and has a lab is to be viewed with suspicion as far as I can see... but let's not pick hairs - reviews are mere guides. Please don't take them too seriously!

OK, getting on with the review! This is a dark golden cider which is hazy, flat and rather tempting. It has a light aroma coming off it too (and as it is served only ever so slightly chilled I think that is accurate). It is deep smelling, with that petroleum smell that I sometimes get (and I still haven't figured out what apples give that smell - though I am certain it is a cider variety).

The taste is also deep; farmyard, leather with a touch of selotape (I know what I mean)... there is a very slight sourness going on somewhere in the background - not in any way dominating and actually making it a bit more interesting. If you think West Country style, then this is that in buckets.

The aftertaste is bittersharp and long. Very nice.

With a score of 74/100, Rough Diamond gets itself onto my apple award list with a bronze apple. One of these days, I shall have to host a cider festival with only apple awarded ciders in the line up. Wouldn't that be a thing!!

Ciderniks "Ten Years After" Cider

 

Now it is time to cast my mind back to March... Apologies for the delay between this and the last review from Winchester... I lost my notes (temporarily) so only had part reviews written that I couldn't. Well, I know I make it look easy (ha ha) but it's not... honest:-)

And so, on my list of ciders to try at Winchester Ale and Cider Festival was something with a bit of an odd name. No, I don't think its a ten year old cider; cider isn't like whisky (though it will keep for several years before starting to lose quality) and I would have thought it would be a bit of a mess after all that time.

No, this is a cider blend to celebrate ten years of cider production by Ciderniks. Doing a touch more digging (post festival), this cider is described as: a blended cider to celebrate 10 years of Ciderniks' cidermaking and also in memory of Alvin Lee (1944-2013), one of the greatest blues-rock guitarists. I had no idea about the Alvin Lee connection, but the essence of this cider is that they attempted to replicate the first cider they made... I think!

Here is where I digress. I would not wish to replicate the first cider I made! It was thin, acidic and quite a challenge to drink. I doubt that anyone would appreciate any subtle qualities in it - not that there really were any. BUT. I learned a lot from my first year - well, I learn a lot each year to be honest but the first year I realised that there was a whole lot more to it than just squishing apples. So, in a way, it is brave of Ciderniks to do this (unless his first blend was inspired!!)

What does it taste like then? Well, it is golden, hazy and still... proper traditional stuff then. It is marked up as medium dry - I am guessing this is done through sweetener though I do not think that is a bad thing. Smaller producers often find the cost of setting up pasteurisation or micro filtration prohibitive.

The aroma is quite cheesy - possibly hoovered carpet (I know - weird concept, but that is what it reminded me of). There is definitely some tannin to the smell too - it is quite a strong smell. Don't get me wrong about the 'cheese' - this is not necessarily a bad thing!

The taste is interesting and quite unlike the aroma. It is quite sharp (in fact, this sharpness lasts through the taste, aftertaste and on!). There is some nice fruit in here though. Towards the end, the tannin cuts in and is drying. So it starts as medium dry and by the end seems more dry. I have written a question mark over the use of culinary fruit.

The aftertaste is long and appley with a sharp undertone all the way.

A score of 70/100 sees Ciderniks earn a bronze apple. As a representation or celebration of what they have done over 10 years, I like it... though I suspect either they made great cider right from the get go or else they have tweaked this recipe using the experience they have learned over the 10 years...

Isastegi Sidra Natural

Carrying on with 'stuff that you may not find everywhere', I have something special to review; its not every day you can get hold of a real live sidra. This bottle, to be fair, was exchanged for some cider, so I have no idea where you can get hold of it.

Knowing nothing about a cider maker is not really much fun, but thankfully they have a website that is in English, so this helps write something about the company (n.b. its actually a pretty good website, with some rather impressive photographs you may wish to see for yourself: http://www.isastegi.com/index_en.htm

Based in the Asturias (I think... my geography is often rather shaky!!) isastagi is a farmhouse cider producer who started making cider in 1983. Judging by the photographs, they have moved on somewhat... although the processes look very familiar to me (just on a larger scale). The 'rules' of making cider in Asturias as probably as severe as the French regions - so you can be sure that a Sidra Natural should be what they say it is. The bottle carries the year of vintage (2012), and at 6% everything is looking good.

Well, when I say looking good, the Asturian taste for cider/sidra is quite different from our UK tastes. We try to avoid cider becoming ascetic (vinegary) whereas the Spanish like it. Perhaps it is something to do with the heat - or the food that accompanies it... after all, how many times have I said that cider is a product of its own place and from its own place? (OK, not much, but it is true)

OK, lets get on with opening this bottle. Not sure if I should do the whole pouring from great height or not. There is a slight pffzz when the bottle opens but this is a still cider for all intents and purposes, although pouring roughly does kick it up a touch. It settles still, bright and yellowy golden.

The smell is rather sharp with a moderate ascetic quality about it. I am expecting it to be almost eastern in style, although the ascetic is probably the most significant character - though this isn't unruly or harsh in any way.

The taste is interesting - certainly not one for those expecting a Magners or Thatchers. However, it is quite unusual to unaccustomed taste buds. It IS rather sharp, and this comes across as quite vinegary to my tastebuds. If this were musing, the cider would be a moderate note whilst the acid a few octaves higher with a slight screech of ascetic hanging over the lot. There is no tannin I can detect - so it is light in itself.

Now, I have to admit that I feel this cider has been balanced for non Asturian drinkers - it isn't challenging all that much and I think this may be the reason why. It is a nice introduction to Sidra though - OK, I have tried the Sainsbury's version which was sweet and sickly. This isn't like that at all - it is much more the real deal: Dry, light and sharp with a lingering aftertaste. I have tried a few Asturian sidra's recently though, and this isn't really in their league (though they were much more of an experience!)

If you can find it, it is a sidra worth trying. If you have never tried sidra before, then it is all the more worth it.

A score of 75/100, it gets a bronze apple from me. Deserved.

Charles Martell 'Owler Pear Spirit

Sometimes life gets in the way of plans and projects - and sometimes writing a blog about your favourite topic just simply has to take a back seat... which is pretty much what has happened in the last 6 months. My apologies to any who were fed up with the tribute to the first World War - though I do think (in the UK at least) the centenary of this folly is important. However, in order to try and kick start a new flourish of reviews I figured I would go for something very different: a pear spirit produced by Charles Martell.

I know, I have never heard of this kind of thing before either?! OK - I am sure the French are at it and we just call it something different in the UK. However this is innovation in the cider industry at work as far as I can tell:-)

One thing you may have noticed is that this is a tiny bottle. I tried to make it look bigger than it really is, but there is a very good reason it's so small: It is bloody expensive! The sharp eyed will notice that I splashed out £5.50 for a 5cl 'sample'. It is more like £60 for a whole bottle - and I just aint going to pay that for something I have never tried before... though I might once I have tried it!!

As an aside, I must say that I love the sample bottle (the big one is the same style). This has been done for whisky and looks great... 

A bit about Charles Martell - They are renowned cheese makers (ever heard of 'Stinking Bishop'?) and are based in Gloucestershire. They are also distillers of apple and pear spirit (although my reading of their website leads me to think that they have only just started releasing spirits.

It is a clear liquid - I guess its what I would expect from pears, which give a juice that is light in colour. Opening the bottle (this has to be the smallest bottle of anything I have reviewed on here!!) and shoving my nose over the top, I am getting pears alongside that familiar acoholic whiff that you find with whiskies and brandy. It isn't as faint as I had expected, and is rather nice. Once it is in the glass, you get the full smell of it. Sure, there are peardrops - though the biggest smell for me now is not unlike Airfix glue or varnish.

It is quite a powerful spirit to drink - there is varnish in the taste, though a part of this is actually the peariness of it. I am not sure it works, but once I have got beyond the varnish smell its really quite a nice drink - though it really does hit you in the back of the throat! It is really a toasty pear that comes through, with a warming tone that rises through each sip and roars at the end. Great for coming home to after a winters day of harvesting or pressing!

I don't know how long this spirit has been aged for. Judging by the fire in its belly I would say not that long - and perhaps it could benefit from another year or so to refine the harsh edges. Mind you, I think that is what this drink it about. It is a hit in the throat and, if I were to buy a bottle, it would wait for the chill of winter - I bet it will shine then!

As it goes, this sample earned a bronze apple from me with a score of 72/100. Not bad at all - perhaps I should try some more:-)

Handmade Cider, White Label Cider

 

A cider maker that I haven't tried before. Well, that is not strictly true - I did try some of their cider at the Winchester Festival, but sadly that isn't written up yet and so will become the second (or even third) of their ciders that I try.

The first thing I always do with a cider is have a look at the bottle. I guess its just the blogger in me... or possibly the marketeer. Apart from the cider itself it is interesting to see what the producer (or their representatives) want to say to me, the drinker, before I experience the drink itself. Something that has caught my eye on this bottle is this; "Produced from a batch of 1000 litres.". Now that is what I am talking about... how craft cider is that? OK, I also notice that it is naturally sweet in the French style. So, is this keeved then? (for those who are unfamiliar with the idea, it is basically removing the nutrients from the juice prior to fermentation. This makes things move along much slower and eventually stop before the cider has reached a dry state). That isn't easy or guaranteed - so I am surprised to be finding it in a normal beer bottle!

OK, lots to explain there!! Keeving is not always stable. You see, the yeast will consume all the sugar in a cider leaving it dry (no - sweet apples don't make sweet cider!). It is quite hard to stop unless you intervene (pasteurise or sterile filter) and kill off the yeast or set things up so that they 'get stuck' (stop before all the sugar is devoured by the yeast). By far and away the most elegant of these processes is keeving (though there is nothing wrong with either method - in fact it is probably preferable to back sweetening with sugar, juice or artificial sweetener!)

However (and its a biggy) because keeving is not guaranteed it could start fermenting again and, therefore, needs heavy duty bottles to contain any gas production... hence French cidre is often found in heavy, punted bottles. So this is either very brave or else the yeast has been killed off in some way.

OK, it pours out deep golden and highly carbonated... see my comments above. I have to say it does smell quite yeasty too - lots of farmyard... in fact, that may not be the nicest smelling cider I have ever had. I suspect it has continued to ferment in the bottle and the low nutrients may have stressed the yeast and caused this eggy/farm yard smell.

Lets move on to the taste, as that is what is important. It is very mellow - lovely cider fruit coming through and almost a touch juicy in a French way. There isn't a lot of acid in here, but it does taste nicely mature with a low level of tannins that emphasises the fruit rather than compete with it.

The aftertaste is also mellow. This is easy drinking and crafted - it is just such a shame about the damn smell of it!

I said just now that it was the taste that is important. This is true, but it is not true that it doesn't matter about the smell. Experiencing a cider is the whole package - including the smell. So sadly it is going to lose marks based on that. I am certainly going to look out for another bottle of this at some point though to see if I just had an errant bottle.

It scores 70/100 and earns a bronze apple. I may have been a little generous based on the taste of the cider - some would certainly not even try it once they smelt it...

Perry's Barn Owl Medium Dry CIder

This is another one of those cases where I think I have tasted all a producer has to offer and sit back on my laurels... only for them to release a new one. Or is it? I have tried their 'Farm Pressed' Dry and Medium before now... have they simply re-labelled it with a stamp bearing the name of a bird?

I think they probably have - although lets not forget Orchard Pig who 'rebranded' and lowered the quality of their cider (in my opinion). At 6.5%, its about the same as the others... and it will be a different year from the others too - so its going to be interesting (and I can never say no to a Perry's cider, can I?)

Once poured out it appears nicely golden, clear and rather highly sparkling... though I am not sure if it has been stood around a while to condition further in the bottle.

The smell is rich and delicious - it certainly hasn't lost anything in the filtration. The bubbles help to push the aroma up your nose: spicy, fruity with a deep country/farm thing going on. It really is quite a meaty smell.

To taste, I am getting a nice blend of fruitiness with some tannin and a background acid. It is well balanced, although it is too sweet for me personally (definitely not a medium dry). It is also a slight touch on the watery side. Going on through the bottle, I would think that there is a good amount of Kingston Black in here, which could be what is providing the background acid... though don't take that as definite! The acid is very moderate (but more pronounced in the aftertaste).

I think the tannins are softened by the sweetening to a big degree although, like the rest of the flavour, it develops as you drink.

The aftertaste is moderate to long and is pleasant.

On the whole, I am impressed (as usual) with Perry's. Right at the top end of my sweetness though, which is a bit of a shame as it is only meant to be a medium dry. As an afternote, I noticed that there was a bit of yeast at the bottom of the bottle - which could explain the highly carbonated cider coming out of it!

A score of 76/100 earns a bronze - which checking back maintains the Perry record with Cider Pages!

Hecks Kingston Black Cider

Wandering back to my recent Hecks 'stash' I find myself drawn to their version of the Kingston Black single variety cider. I do find their simple design and use of colour on the labels attractive... although as a cider, this is a medium and so I am going to have to adjust my tastebuds accordingly:-)

So, opening this very smart bottle of cider, it gives of nothing more than a 'pfst' and pours with a low carbonation. As you will see from the photograph, it is pure golden brightness - obviously filtered and highly polished.

It has a rather nice smell - the Kingston Black seems understated. It isn't reaching out and grabbing me by the throat like some other versions I have tried. It is gentle and pleasant - mature and inviting.

I am not known as one who thinks single varieties are all that they may be for wine. A complete cider is a blended cider as far as I am concerned. With nearly 400 ciders under my belt on this blog alone, I am still of that opinion (mind you, us cider makers can be a belligerent bunch!!) Kingston Black is meant to be the 'perfect' single variety apple... actually, I rather prefer a Yarlington SV being more funky - but I still quite like the good ol' KB.

The Kingston Black in this cider is somewhat sidelined by the sweetening. It is dulled quite a bit, and I understand why it is understated. Don't get me wrong, the flavour is rich and smokey - well matured with a tannin and a sharpness to underline it. However, over the top of this is a sweetness that is all of it's medium description.

There are so many factors in liking a cider to take into account: do you like dry or sweet? Tannin? Acid? Do you like a 'thick' scrumpy like cider or a clear, vineous cider? All are valid and there are excellent examples of all of these. I am very glad that we do not require our cider makers to conform too much... well, I guess they wouldn't if asked!

The aftertaste is fairly short - a consequence (I think) of the filtering. However, it is a nice cider and I enjoyed it.

A good cider with a good score of 71/100 and a bronze apple for Hecks. If you like sweet ciders you may score it more.

Ross on Wye - Broome Farm Perry

Moving from Somerset up to Herefordshire (happens a lot for cider and perry:-) for this perry from Ross on Wye. Now, these guys have an excellent track record on here for their cider so I guess I am expecting some good things from the perry too. We shall see.

Once again the bottle comes with a llama stuck on it. No, its not a llama - its an alpaca. Is it being offensive to say that this one has a bit of a squished up face??? The description says that their herd of alpaca's graze for part of the year under the pear trees, so perhaps this one was grazing under a very acidic pear tree!!

This perry pours out yellowy gold and with the tiniest 'pfzz'. It looks clear, but I think it is fairly bright for perry (it can be a bugger to get polished and clear). It has quite a lively, citrus smell to it. And although the smell is robust, there is are a few floral notes which takes the edge off. I am looking forward to this;-)

For once, I think Ross on Wye have got the sweetening wrong. Its really much more sweet than the medium dry that it says on the label. It is well into medium. However, working with this, I am getting quite a floral and fruity perry underneath it. Once again, there are some peaches in the mouth - though less so than I am coming to expect (this could just be the sweetness). It is quite juicy too, However, there is a little tannin and I am getting some acidic notes too. It is the floral, pear flavour that wins through though.

A moderate length aftertaste which again is mostly sweet and peary with a juicy tone that competes with the perry.

In all, I do like this but felt that the sweetening let it down a bit. It would have been nice to try this as a proper medium dry - I am sure it would be really good. A score of 77/100 earns a bronze. It is well put together, but not quite hitting the mark.

Hecks Perry

Back on to the perries then. This one is from Hecks; a producer of renown based in the heart of Somerset. I got this bottle direct (and no, I didn't have to use a boat to get there - though it was rather wet!). Coming in a 750ml bottle, it was enough to share. Just don't ask if I shared it!

I am very glad that I have a few Heck's to review now. One of the features of craft cider and perry is that it is unlikely to get a national availability... and I am, so far, lucky to get out to the West Country every now and again. Having a few to try, I am a little mystified as to why I started with the perry... not exactly my strong point! I am rather enjoying the learning curve though (so perhaps it isn't such a bad thing that it goes first!)

In the bottle, it is clear and golden - perhaps with a touch of sediment at the bottom - so if it has been filtered (and I think this is likely) it has been done so sensitively. Without wishing to pre-judge this perry - that word could describe all the really good cider makers: sensitive. Sensitive to the drink itself, its sweetness, the best way to present it...

In the glass there is no fizz whatsoever - lovely and still. It has a classic perry smell to it as well. I think I am getting some sweetness though - well, it is a medium sweet, so it is going to be right at the upper end of my sweetness scale. I am getting some mellow cidery smell as well - I think there are going to be tannins...

The taste is everything I have described - it is very sweet, but to be fair that is how it is described so it isn't too sweet. It is the medium sweet that is described. Beneath the sweetness, which I guess must be sugar as I am not getting juiciness or any aftertaste, I am getting some peach (pears don't taste of peaches, so I have some work to do to truly understand this). Back this up with a woody tone and even ice-cream notes this is rather a nice perry... even if it is too sweet for my own palate.

I am getting a mellow tannin undertone to this drink, although cannot detect much acid - that is not to say that there isn't enough going on already!!

The aftertaste is long and develops in the mouth (although the sweetness stays with you). I ought to reiterate - this perry is a medium sweet, so please don't expect it to be dry!

Hecks perry scores 78/100 for me, which is a bronze apple. I suspect that if you like sweeter perries you would score it more.

Cornish Orchards Pear Cider

Hopefully I am now moving back to some perry that is more traditionally made now. Checking back on their cider reviews, I rather like Cornish Orchards drinks... so I think that this may be a safer perry to return to.

So, lets get on with it. Well, I have to say I rather like the style of the bottle. I have probably said this before but it is classy and simple. Saying I like it - I don't like the fact that they have called it pear cider. I guess that is the snob in me - perry and pear cider are (I guess) an interchangeable concept these days and to suggest that perry = good and pear cider = bad is missing the mark somewhat. Sure, I cannot think of one drink called 'perry' that is industrial in nature (I frame that statement in the knowledge that both Babycham is perry and also Lambrini... though I admit I have no idea whether they call themselves perry specifically).

Moving on to the description... well, although I have not obtained permission the fact that it is on their bottles means I can replicate it here:

"A refreshing, delicate, medium dry cider that has a lovely soft sparkle with gentle pear tones and a crisp dessert apple finish. Created with beautiful English Conference pears. A fabulous alternative to white wine or serve chilled over ice; a wonderful long drink."

Confused. Well, forgive the use of 'cider' - its a pear cider (and my thinking having studied the bottle is that they call it that because their stock of labels refer to their ciders... Conference pears. There are very sweet with no acid at all - hence the use of apples to provide acidity and balance. It will be an interesting experience. I believe that many of the mass market brands use conference and comace - the two common dessert pears available in large quantities. As to white wine etc. well, I am going to open the bottle and give it a go.

This perry has a moderate sparkle to it - in fact it is another bottle that has sat around for a few month and does appear to have developed a bit (there was a tiny amount of settled sediment). However, I would suggest that it has been filtered to a degree as it is bright.

The smell is surprising... and nice. A bit of acid in the nose and a very pungent floral (rose like) smell. And (here is the surprising bit) there is something wine like about the aroma. This isn't supported so much with the taste, although it is nice. There is a touch of syrup about it - could be sweetening or the apples perhaps.

In summary, the taste is delicate and tasty. There is more than a hint of dessert apple about it, and it is a floral almost cidery drink which has more than a passing similarity to white wine. Saying that it isn't a cutting or crisp drink like a wine would be and I am still thinking cider as I work my way through the glass. On the whole it is gentle and has a reasonable amount of acidity

There is a medium length aftertaste, which is fairly light and acidic. I should also add that the medium dry is done very well, so it is an all round hit for me... well, not the greatest in my short  perry career but certainly very good.

A score of 72/100 and a bronze apple goes to Cornish Orchards...

Morrisons Vintage Cider 2012

Now I move on to the second cider from Morrisons – see, I am trying to equalise my supermarket ciders, although I am not sure that many of them have received any kind of apple from me. This either says something about the big store attitudes to what they think cider ought to taste like or (more concerning) it is the attitude of the producers who make the stuff feel that supermarket cider ought to taste like. Hmm, there is a thought there – I guess if I were making cider for the supermarkets AND my own bottles were going to sit alongside them I would make sure that my cider came out as being better. Actually, no, I wouldn’t. Not that I would ever get the chance to do this, I would make sure that I not only made first rate cider for all but would make sure my name was on the bottle.

That being said, I am not going to prejudge this cider. After all, the ‘own brand’ ciders that tend to do best are the Vintage versions, so I am expecting this cider to be pretty good. It had better be – the only other Morrisons cider I have is their standard medium dry… which looks like it was made by either Magners or Bulmers!!

It is moderately sparkling – almost identically so to the last Morrisons cider. It looks quite light gold too, although the smell is much more bittersweet than before. There is still some juice up the nose though. Thinking some more, it is very similar in its composure (in a smelling kind of way). Guess I ought to try it then.

This is less watery than the organic. It is also drier too – a medium dry which has been gently back sweetened with juice. The tannins are quite pleasant, although I do wish they wouldn’t feel that it was so important to adjust the acidity to balance things out – it detracts from the experience of the fruit. Speaking of fruit, I am getting some… which again is more than the organic too. As a bit of a distraction, there is a fairly strong taste of So2 (sulphite) which does affect the tannic taste somewhat.
A moderate length aftertaste is also nice, and ends in a tannic coating of the tongue.

A score of 70/100 - true to form, it is the Vintage ciders that proove to be the best tasting ciders made by/for/whatever supermarkets.

I think I may be now qualified to advise cider fans that, if you must buy supermarket own brand ciders, then the ones that you ought to go for are those that are vintage. Of course, this isn’t straight forward – Morrisons have two that they call ‘Vintage’ – the organic has a vintage tag… but this merely means that it was made from a single years apples. Look for the cider called Vintage.

If I ever crack supermarkets for my own cider, it will be on the basis that it is very different from most of their line up. I can see that there are a few ‘smaller’ producers doing it… although the very nature of the beast is that many are producing something more ubiquitous to sell than they would if you visited them directly…

Tieton Cider Works, Cidermaker's Reserve

OK, this one has sat around for a while patiently waiting its turn. I am not that familiar with American hard ciders, but did get talking to one earlier this year and the kindly sent me a bottle (although I would not say it is free... the duty payable on delivery definitely compensates for any free idea!

Being the first hard cider, I guess it gives me an opportunity to explain what is meant by that. 'Hard Cider' basically is what the Americans call 'cider' (OK, this is written primarily for a UK audience - so if you are reading this in America then 'cider' is what British call 'hard cider'). It really is as simple as that; no difference from the French calling it 'cidre' or the Spanish calling it 'sidra'.

Well, that was a complex and space consuming explanation wasn't it. Guess that gives me more room to go through this hard cider properly:-) Perhaps.I should elaborate on how I came to get this cider... though it was a while ago now. Every now and again I am asked to try a specific producers wares - I get sent updates and announcements and the like. I am normally unwilling to do this: these reviews are fun if nothing else and I don't want others taking them more seriously than they are. One thing I do try to do is to promote the good stuff. If one person reads a review and chooses a cider based on it... and then really enjoys the cider too... well, that makes the work worthwhile doesn't it.

This one was slightly different. I figured that it was the only way I was going to get to try a cider from across the pond. So there you go... I actually think its brave of Teiton... I wouldn't want to be the first to send cider for review!!

The first thing to mention is the bottle. Very classy - I don't think I have seen cider served in a champagne bottle like this! Also, the label is nice - not sure about some of the language though; "vanilla and plum notes"... hmmm... "hints of charred oak"... OK then. I guess I could put this down to the difference in language from across the pond, I like the design though.

It pours out foamy and fizzy. I can smell it from across the room - it is an interesting smell and more along the dessert fruit tradition, light and a touch tart in the nose. However, if I am thinking of it I am getting some vanilla in the nose... though I am always dreadfully suspicious of being 'primed' to smell something. No plums though:-)

It is also ever so slightly hazy - I am not convinced it has been filtered, though there is very little sediment at the bottom which is common in bottle conditioning.

The taste is very light and has a nice amount of fruit in it. There is a sharp element to it but it has some body too - perhaps a touch of sourness that is likely to come from using a fair amount of culinary fruit in the blend. It comes across as a medium to medium dry and is nicely done so the sweetening doesn't overpower the character. It also tastes rather strong (and at 8% I am not surprised!). Finally, it is a little yeasty; though this is possibly a result of it sitting on my shelf maturing in the bottle as much as any bottle conditioning.

The aftertaste is pretty long and light in the mouth. I do have to say that I got a touch of oak - a hint - but not charred oak really.

I quite like this cider. It has some character and individuality (although, as this is the first cider from the USA that I have tried that is a dangerous statement to make). With a score of 72/100 it joins the ranks of the bronze apples.

Re-reading this before posting it I do have one thing to say that has nothing in particular to do with this cider. It is aimed at other cider reviewers. Actually, it is to specific 'reviewers' who claim to review cider. See I do keep my ear to the ground occasionally:-) My message is simple... Read the above review. That, my friends, is how you review and appreciate a cider. For God's sake, if you are trying to do right by those you are reviewing (those who actually put themselves out there by producing the stuff) then actually give the bloody stuff a chance and don't just judge it off-hand like you already had a problem before you even started!

I do like reading, viewing and listening to other reviews - it gives a perspective to what I write. But quite honestly listening to their babbling was just a joke! Don't just take a gulp and declare something crap. That shows no work; no research, thought or consideration and, quite frankly, insults the cider (and the producer) that you are trying to review. It reduces your views to ignorance and is, quite frankly, pathetic. I think I speak on behalf of every other reviewer of cider, ale or whatever when I say that from what I have heard this kind of review does no service to anyone and makes us all look bad.

If you don't like something then try to communicate what it is you don't like - with knowledge or some kind of vocabulary (if you have any). Currently, your reviews are no use to man and beast and are simply a waste of three quarters of an hour! There are other reviewers, both blogging in text or as video's that are great - my advice would be to read them, think about what they are saying... perhaps even try a couple and compare (if you can get them). A good review doesn't simply diss something - it tries to communicate something that others can use - agree or disagree... if you can't, please do us all a favour and don't bother! 

As a final note to this - I have always said that if producers or drinker feel that my own reviews are unfair then I ask that they let me know. I hope my own reviews have NEVER fit into the category I mention above... I always consider a cider, do as much research as I can and if I find a fault then try to think about what it is. It is easy to knock something, but lazy not to do the work - every cider and producer deserves that.

Les Goelleries Cidre Bouche Breton

Well, words fail me! For the first time I have failed to have a photograph to put at the top of this review. In actual fact I did have a photograph but managed to delete the frot image (probably the more important one) without downloading it. Oh well... I have pinched one from the website for the supermarket where I bought it - E Leclerg. Hope you don't mind!

Another evening by the barbeque in the south of France and another cidre to try out whilst I am relaxing. I have two cidres from Les Goelleries and this one happened to be in the fridge at the right time. To be fair, writing a few reviews down is a small nugget from home that I have quite enjoyed over the last week or so. I am not exactly the sort of person who can just laze around with nothing to do and the rest of the family haven't felt like exploring too much. So the reviews (I have only really done one a day) have been 20-30 minutes of 'me' time - though the family have sampled and offered opinions:-)

Once again, this cidre bears the PGI – so I can be fairly sure that it is pretty well traditionally made - even if you could in reality drive a coach and horses through the PGI (within reason).

As a Brut it is around the 5% mark and, as expected it is the usual golden colour with a moderate to high sparkle. I am getting the rich fruity smell this cider – it does smell a little sweet and I am sure it is a bit light and sharp too.

To taste it is really quite nice. A sharpness compliments the juice and, as with other Breton cidre the tannins are soft and understated.  It has a juicy body to it that lasts well into the aftertaste – although the aftertaste itself is not that long.

Working my way through the bottle, I have to say that there is nothing to say that is either exceptional or poor about this cider. It is a typical Breton cidre with all the elements that make it good but not outstanding. I suppose it is rather gassy, but perhaps that is just trying to find something to say.

I do like this – and I think it deserves an apple (I say that without knowing the score yet). Not a great apple, but it is very competent and good that it is available freely.

The score is 73/100, so a bronze apple for Les Goelliers - deserved and one to find (if you cannot find anything direct from a producer!)

Heritage Velderance du Cidre, Cidre de Bretagne (Les Celliers Associes)

Apologies that I have so far failed to get in any unique or special cidre from France yet this year. To be honest, it is going to be fairly unlikely unless I can pick something up from northern France on the journey home. However, this isn’t a review blog only for those places where special cider is found!

This cidre, made in the ‘bouche’ style is actually made by Les Celliers Associes, a cidre cooperative found in Brittany. In operation since 1953, this cooperative is formed of some 300 growers and uses some 10 to 15 thousand tons of apples... so quite big then!! This bottle has the PGI stamp on it too. I happen to know a little about PGI, so can go away and check the ‘Cidre de Bretagne’ PGI to find out to what standard it has been produced.

The PGI for Breton cider is interesting - if a little open (a bit like the three counties PGI to be honest). Dilution can occur (although it requires the water be added to the pomace 'to extract extra sugar'). Up to 40% of the content of the cider may be concentrate, although if a cider is labelled as 'pur jus' with the PGI, it has to be just that - no water allowed. Filtering and sweetening are allowed. It doesn't give any total juice content requirement though; and often these things are about what isn't said as opposed to what is - you only have to look beyond your nose in the cider industry to realise that this is exactly how the larger companies have exploited lower juice content.

And so, I am sat here, at 8pm in a temperature of 30 degrees ‘C’. The sunburn is calming down a little and I am ready for this cidre. The bottle comes straight out of the fridge (in these temeperatures it is the only way to drink it!) It is presented in the standard French format (gold/sparkling/bright) and pours out with a flourish. There is some tannin to the smell which is lovely and this is backed up by a sweet fruity smell that just leaps out of the bubbles at you.

There is quite a long and complex taste to this cidre. It is more cidery than the other cidre recently. The tannin is very soft and doesn’t win against the acid and sweetness. There is a long aftertaste which is simply more fruit – I am not sure what apples are typical of Brittany but they deliver a low, soft tannin that provides character and a touch of body, whilst the acid is much more pronounced (yet not sour at all).

This is a surprisingly good cidre found in a national supermarket. A good example of the style!

A score of 76/100 sees a bronze apple (and it is the best cidre this year so far!)

Loic Raison Traditionnel Breton Cidre

Paris departed and now sat in glorious sunshine somewhere between Gaillac and Toulouse. Well, that was earlier and am now sat inside and ready for another cidre.

This plastic bottled cidre is probably a step away from the usual high quality cidre. I don’t normally ‘do’ cider in plastic bottles but I have never come across a cloudy ‘traditional’ cidre within France. The vast majority are bottle conditioned or cidre bouche, method traditionnel etc. and therefore clear to bright with little sediment. The question about this one is how close to our scrumpy does it get? Is it still and cloudy or is there some Co2 life to it?

The other thing that I notice is that this is a 1.5 litre bottle… made for sharing then. It says on the bottle that it is ‘naturallement trouble’. OK, this made me giggle a little but, while my first instinct was that it meant 'naturally fizzy' using my English expectation of the word 'trouble' it actually means naturally 'cloudy'. And I can confirm that it is that. Whether it is natural or not - well, lets not get all Westons Old Rosie on it yet shall we!


Lets see how I get on with it. Well, it is sparkling though not highly so and smells juicy, sweet and fruity. It is quite a lot fainter than the Le Brun but not a bad smell in all. It is rather cloudy and looking at it I do wonder whether this is deliberately been done or whether it is the result of a natural process (i.e. is the cloud manufactured by industrial process so that it hangs about?). My own is cloudy whilst fermenting, but soon drops clear once fermentation is complete. If that process happens in a bottle, there is sediment at the bottom – it doesn’t stay in solution.

It has a very juicy taste to it – fresh apples but very little body over and above this. It comes across as quite watery, although actually it is very refreshing – it is chilled which helps a bit. It isn’t especially sweet, which is I think where the traditional bit comes in. The French are not renowned for dry ciders and this is a nice change. I do have to say that it doesn’t compete with half the UK dry ciders though:-)

The fizz dies down fairly quickly in this cidre, and once settled I do get some tannin and a bit more acid from it. That is good as it isn’t just relying on it’s juiciness to give it character. The aftertaste is fairly long and pleasant.

As a session cider, this is rally rather nice and I would recommend it to anyone in a non cider producing region of France. Incidentally, try having a chat with a Frenchman in a wine region of France and mention that you are a cider maker… the facial expression is priceless!

A good score for this one – perhaps better than it ought, but that was what it got. 73/100 and a bronze apple.