Bulmers Pear

I am sure I have said this for just about every Bulmers or Magners product that I have tried to date... sooner or later I had to try this example. This one isn't even a pear cider... its a pear. OK, probably a little mischievous but this is one of those drinks that people will automatically think of (well, those who drink pear cider, that is). I am glad, however, that I have had the chance to try a few very high quality perries before coming to this one.

Looking at the label, apparently pears were the first fruit Bulmers pressed back in 1887. Marketeers. I love em (not). Well, all I can say to that comment is that I would put money on the perry being made back in 1887 to have an awful lot more juice content that there is today... and Mr Bulmers - all that time ago - would probably not recognise this (barring it being his name on the label!). Oh well, I guess if you know nothing about perry making practices then this is probably a reassuring thing.

I know I bang on about this, but heritage is very important to me. Heritage and quality... the two aren't linked. Just because someone has been making cider for long enough that they should know how to put a decent cider together does not mean by any stretch that they do... However, for Bulmers to play on heritage - when their practices and products  don't resemble anything of the sort. Am I not the only one who finds this a bit disingenuous?

Look, I am going to step away from this perspective in order to try this pear cider with some kind objectivity.

It pours out golden, fizzy and bright and sparkly.I am mostly getting pear drops from the smell - it is quite strong. It isn't the subtle and charismatic smell that I have experienced in the very best of the perries, but it isn't so boiled sweets that I am put off... and at least it smells of pears.

The taste is much more watered down. Its a bit of a cross between cider and perry to be honest. There are no real tannins (perhaps I get the whisper of them) and not a whole lot of acid either - though strangely it does have some body.

With a short, sweet aftertaste I have to conclude that this is a bit of a ghost of itself. Any bold flavours have been rounded off to present something that would only offend those that really appreciate perry at a strength that cannot be criticised by the anti drinks lobby.

Saying all this, I don't hate it. In fact, I can see why it is popular - there is nothing to hate... nothing at all. Nothing to see here... a score of 53/100 sees it safely 'in the middle'.

 

Bulmers Strongbow

So, I have managed to nearly accomplish 300 cider reviews without including this particular concoction. At first, this was easy - it was only available in cans. But they cottoned on... the put it in bottles. I would have had to have bought a 6 pack though. So again, easy to avoid. Blast you Morrisons. Selling these damn things in singles.

I had thought to make this my 300th cider. But why celebrate with mediocrity. I have a special cider review for that. This shouldn't have it's moment marked... I was rather hoping to avoid it. And so, for my 299th cider review, I give you, Strongbow. It had to happen sooner or later.

On that note, I opted to walk away from this for a day - sometimes it is simply too hard to be objective (and it wouldn't be fair to Strongbow drinkers to simply diss their drink as an act of snobbery or self importance!)

Looking at the label, it says very little - "made with bitter sweet apples for cool, crisp refreshment". Perhaps I misunderstand the word 'crisp', but surely dessert apples produce more 'crisp' refreshment. It also has another mystifying statement, "Dry cider with sugars and sweetener". OK, either it is a dry cider or it contains sugar or sweetener. Why both sugar and sweetener? Or am I missing something?

Anyway, this is Bulmers flagship brand. According to Wikipedia (I know, not exactly the most reliable source) Strongbow controls 10% of the world sales of cider (I note the Wiki source is undated) and 20% of cider sales in the UK (same source - undated). The only other interesting snippet of information that doesn't appear to have been sterilised within the Wiki entry is that the Bulmers Strongbow tank is the largest tank in the world, holding 15 million gallons. Not sure where I would put that then!!

A small word about HP Bulmers though. Not that it matters to those who drink it, but it is, in fact, owned by Heinekin. So brewers have owned cider companies for a while then:-) However, this gives you an idea of the chain of command that goes into producing such a drink.

OK, enough factoids. On with the review.

Strongbow is a pale golden drink, and pours out foamy and bright. Looks a bit like the colour of lager, actually. The smell? Well, its apple sweets I have to say - a faint cidery note or two but mostly a sweet - boiled sweet aroma.

The taste is what I guess people see in lager over something more authentic - again, there is a nod to it's cidery claim but its very watery. There is some acid going on, as well as a tiny amount of tannin. For what there is it is pretty well balanced. I am also getting a bit of fruit out of the glass too, but it is all very faint and I would be pushing the envelope to suggest that this is satisfying. While this drink is rooted in cider, it has about as much in common with what I am more used to as its Carling, Stella and Carlsberg counterparts... a dumbed down drink for those who don't really care about cider (other than it is different from the lager their mates are drinking).

As a full juice cider producer, I must actually admit that I find this cider rather insulting. That Bulmers - a stalwart cider company and cornerstone member of the UK trade body, can peddle something so faintly cider and get away with calling it cider just shows how far the drinks industry has been turned on its head to accept mediocrity and falsity as its basis. Cider is better than this folks...

49/100 is a good score for this drink. It is much like its aftertaste - short and non eventful.

Bulmers Vintage Reserve Cider

"This small batch Vintage Reserve has been made with last years exceptional apple crop. We have carefully blended together some of our best vintage grade apples to make this, one of our finest tasting ciders yet." (my highlights and italics)

Well, I know its hard to surprise anyone with the picture in large at the top of each review, but I have some hopes for this cider. Why? Well, I have said before that I have no doubt that Bulmers could make a fantastic cider if they wanted to. I also note that it's their 125th birthday this year - and so to ensure that Mr Bulmer doesn't jump out of his grave shouting and screaming they must have made something to pacify him. OK, that is glib (and probably rude), but I do think that this could be the one to actually write home about... lets try it and see.

Its a fairly plain bottle. Understated and yet with a huge QR code on the back for those with smart phones and nothing better to do. Incidentally, without wishing to give Bulmers game away, its a hyperlink to the 'Vintage Reserve' website:-) At 5.5% its not a bad strength either. It still calls itself premium however, which must mean deduct a point from the overall. Mind you, it gets one back for not saying 'serve over ice'. So we are back on track!

It pours out with a golden glow (partly because its filtered bright) and also because it is a nice shade of gold. With a low carbonation I have to say the smell is definitely there. Nothing too apply or faint with this cider. Although its a fairly 'general' cider smell I am getting bittersweet apples in it too.

Now, having just tasted it I do actually rather like it. It does taste a tiny bit syrupy - although it is a smooth mouthful. There are tannins in here and a fair bit of acid too. Its too clean to be bitter sharps - I have to put it down to simply acid (often bitter sharps come with their own character too, which I cannot detect here).

A pretty quick aftertaste is nice whilst it lasts - though I must admit that as I progress through this cider it does feel a little one dimensional. Its probably the heavy handed filtering that large companies do, coupled with pasteurisation, but in the end it is a posh Bulmers Original. Now, please don't misunderstand me; I don't think this is Original relabelled. Original is not as nice as this one. But it has been tamed and put into its own little commodity type box. I guess this is down to the large scale processes more than anything.

So, on the whole, this is the best Bulmers I have tasted yet. Is it a scratch on the best ciders I have tasted before now? No, its not. Which is odd, because I know the sort of quality cider fruit that Bulmers get in is most definitely equal to the fruit that their neighbours at Olivers, Westons, Lyne Down, Once Upon a Tree etc. etc.

OK, the score. I would love to give Bulmers a bronze apple just for the effort (as patronising as that may sound), Unfortunately, with a score of 64/100 I can't do that - though that score is just about right for me: It just aint a quality heritage cider enough...

Happy 125th Birthday Bulmers!

Bulmers Crisp Blend Cider

OK, I think I can see where Bulmers are going with this one. At least its not 'green' or 'red' apples this time. This cider, I am expecting an eastern counties cider full of sharpness and lemony flavours. Judging by Bulmers track record, however, I suspect it may not exactly live up to that monica. They cater for the masses, not for the person seeking the best. I am happy to be surprised though!

As with the Red Apples version, this is a limited edition. I suspect its testing the water. If I were marketing new ciders, I suppose I would do the same. After all, Bulmers are leaders in the cider market alongside Magners (commercially - probably not in best ciders!)

Once again, its served in the 'pint' bottle. Looking at the label, there is the 'drink it over ice' blurb, although it also recommends to drink it in the sunshine. Ah, that will be why its a limited edition. Bulmers know about the UK summer:-)

All joking aside, this cider is the standard 4.5%, weak for a traditional cider, but about standard for the more generally available ones. It is also encouragingly light in colour but with a big fizz. It also has a very light aroma, although its not an aroma of much.

Sadly, its got the ubiquitous Bulmers taste to it as well. Although the tannins are masked somewhat it is not overly acidic either. There isn't much of an aftertaste - although very unfortunately I could taste sulphites at the end of the mouthful... having used sulphites and smelled them as a crushed and diluted chemical, I have noted that this is prominent. A shame, although not really too much as my biggest problem is that it isn't really eastern (or even that crisp).

Enough said, it scored 50/100

Bulmers Red Apple Cider

Okay, a cider made using only red apples. Now, to me that sounds a little bit like making a cider from only large apples, or apples whose stalk leans to the left. There are some very good red cider apples; Kingston Black is a red apple and Tremletts Bitter is often red (although can have a bit of green to it which may disallow it). And there is another thought... if they get an apple that is mostly red but, by some accident there is a bit of green, do they cut it out???

Unhelpful I know, but this could go on for ages! Bulmers Red Apple is a limited edition cider - I presume to diversify the Bulmers range of cider. I must admit, I am struggling to think of anyone else that produces a 'red apple' blend of cider... maybe there will be a green apple cider to follow.

On pouring I was just a tiny bit disappointed that the cider wasn't red too. At least I would have got it then. However, this is a dark golden liquid with quite a sparkle to it. This dies off fairly quickly and I would say its a medium fizz as opposed to a high fizz. Doesn't exactly smell of cider though - not that it smells of an awful lot, to be honest.

I ought to clarify, I expect a cider to have an aroma - not a huge one that has been manufactured in some kind of 'steam of cider' effect, but a gently smell of cider. And that is cider, not really apples so much (although there are some great ciders that manage to maintain an apple taste to them). The aroma also helps the drinker detect other things, like faults for example.

Back to the Red Apple. After a few glugs of this now, it is really syruppy and stodgy. Sure, there are some good tannins in the cider - presumably the benefit of red apples which (no doubt) will scientifically have been proven to contain more tannin (joking!!!) There is also a real absense of any acid at all. It is also very stable and balanced - too much so really and there is little character to it, other than its lack of acid and stodginess.

Maybe I get this drink now. the Red Apples bit means it is a heavy western style cider. No sharps, just bittersweets. This is a bit of a guess though - some of my favourite bittersweets (many of the 'Jerseys' - Harry Masters, Dabinett, Chisel - plus Yarlington Mill) are not just red in colour. So perhaps its a turn of phrase. Its the only way I can think to define this cider. However, this cider suffers a lot from being too safe. Its thick, sweet and tannic. I really dont like it very much.

It scored 49.

Bulmers Original Cider

OK, I had to do it sooner or later. Anyone that is reading this blog who is sensitive to such things please look away now, as you may be offended.

Yes, I believe that Bulmers deserves a review as much as anyone else. If Magners is the yardmark, then Bulmers ought to place too. I know cider makers that would disagree with me. But then I am/would be happy to put my cider up against Bulmers at a taste test, so why should I be worried about it? Also, it is one of the most popular ciders in the UK - so if there is better stuff out there ought we to engage with this drink. There I go, sounding like some kind of missionary with a zeal to convert the masses. This blog isn't about that. Its about measuring things from my own perspective. And I have an open mind. So here we go.

Its Magners shaped, its Magners sized. Its best served 'over ice'... Let me guess who Bulmers is in competition with:-) On that note, Bulmers is more or less judged by most. However, it is not Magners. Its an English cider made in Hereford.

Its also like a beer! On pouring, it develops a head unlike any cider I have ever seen. And this foamy carbonation has staying power. For someone who likes only a hint of sparkle, I waited this one out and lost! Interestingly, this foam is not that fizzy (does that make sense?). It actually gives body to an otherwise watery cider. There is an aroma, and the aroma is of the west country style of cider - tannin, cider fruit with not a lot of acid going on.

As for taste its more cidery than Magners - not surprising given its Herefordshire parentage. It is a very bland cider though. No doubt, Bulmers could produce a cracking cider if they wanted to, but this isn't it. Its very safe indeed. It makes the right noises, but is clearly far from full juice. It tastes and feels like an engineered cider - tailored to taste like a general western style, with little or no acidity - what is there is countered by its sweetness. There is an aftertaste, albeit a fairly weak spirited one.

Saying this, it is different from Magners - a step in the right direction, although only a single step - and its score of 50 more or less proves that for me.