New Forest Cider Kingston Black

I think anyone reading this blog will think I am showing favouritism to New Forest Cider. It could be that whenever I visit somewhere (like a cider maker) I will try to buy a range of their drinks. I do try to space them out a bit though... but then I am a bit of a fan of their cider anyway so I have no idea what I am apologising for.

I guess a lot of the full juice ciders I have tried have been from outside of the Herefordshire (et al)/Somerset borders. And whilst I do think that a hell of a lot of cider is made inside 'ciderland' one of the things I am very encouraged by is the number of cider makers outside of that territory. Cider, traditionally, was mostly made by farmers who did so as a part of their occupation. And this was not restricted to certain parts of the UK... so I am pleased that the passion to make quality cider does not respect location! Incidentally, its only because I havent visited Somerset etc. for a while - I usually do a fair amount but just not this year so far.

Another Kingston Black single variety. As good as it is as an apple, does it make an outstanding cider? Hmmmm. This is a beautiful cider, I have to say - to look at, that is. Its deep and golden, with an aroma to match. Big cider apple smell, you know where you just know it is full juice and alcoholic!

The taste is incredibly fruity and tannic. A bit sharp (which is what you should expect from a bittersharp apple) but its not too much. Sure, its unbalanced - its made from a single variety - but its a tangy fruity cider. Its a bit like the apple equivalent of a juicy orange:-)

I do think it's a shame it has been filtered. Mind you, the taste is still fresh and strong. Not exactly bone dry (a little sweetening perhaps??). The aftertaste lingers and its really very nice.

And score? What do you know, its another silver with 82/100. I guess my comment would be its a little limited through its filtering, but still retains its fruity, gently tannic and rather more-ish.

New Forest Traditional Farmhouse Cider (Medium Dry)

I am unclear as to what relationship this version of New Forest's cider has to the Snakecatcher. My suspicion if that it may turn out to be a tamed, cleaner version of the same blend. This Farmhouse cider can be found at a number of Waitrose around the South of the UK, plus the usual specialist off licences, shows etc. etc. And don't forget Borough Market in London too. Knowing New Forest Cider, it is likely to be a proper heritage cider - made with care and love (well, that is the benefit of knowing who you are talking about I guess!!)

Nicely, it would appear it has only been shown the carbonation machine -  only very lightly sparkling. However, it looks as though it has been filtered, carbonated and probably a little sweetened too. This is pretty much standard process for stuff found in supermarkets - who neither want the percieved risk (I can't see what risk personally) of a simple cider or the risk that it won't sell as well as filtered ciders. Well, people want crisp, crunchy apples that are beautifully shiny and round  - why wouldn't that extend to ciders - knock out flavour, make it bright and 'shiny' and you're on to a winner?! The people get what the people deserve... says the grumpy middle aged man!

This is nothing like a 'crisp and crunchy' cider though. The aroma is deep and tannic. Very nice indeed. Its also a deep golden colour. Similar to Snakecatcher on both counts.

If this is Snakecatcher reborn for the masses, the filtering has forced the cider to lose some of its harshness - plus a little of its character too. However, its a testament to New Forest Cider that its still got stacks of character left, even if it is slightly lost in the process.

The taste is all bittersweet tannins. I cannot detect a huge amount of acid behind it. Very Herefordshire in character, look and feel.

The cider tannins last well beyond the mouthful, and it has a lingering alcoholic taste. Easy drinking (though do be careful!!) The sweetness is a little bit of a distraction to the taste, but not so much as to drown it (read that with 'I like dry cider' in mind!). When I previously said I would prefer a Snakecatcher that was a bit sweeter, I think this has gone a touch far. It does fit with its Medium dry monika though.

A very nice cider indeed - and just shy of another silver. It scored 79/100... I was very tempted to 'bump' it up a point!

New Forest Snakecatcher Scrumpy (Dry)

Here we have New Forest Cider's hallmark cider. Its what I know them for best, in any case. I am not sure what the relation of Snakecatcher to the bottles found in Waitrose around the south is, but the traditional Snakecatcher is found in big wooden barrels at their shop, at Borough Market in London and travelling around various shows (where I got this from).

What does that mean? Well, apart from buying something in a quantity as opposed to picking it off a shelf, its going to be a flat, draught cider. I happen to know its full juice too - its one of the benefits of being able to ask the question from those who actually make the stuff. It does shorten its shelf life over bottles though. As you can see this cider came in a plastic container (OK, I almost said milk carton...)

So, before I get too quaint and old worlde - its a nice golden colour and smells of cider apples. Yum. On the down side (a bit) it also smells a little oxidised (how can I describe it? I guess its a slightly sour note to the cider - not so much sour as a bit 'off'). My suspicion is that this is the pay off from buying something from a large oak barrel. If its only half full of cider, then the rest must be air...

By way of confirming this, it also tasted a little oxidised. But this is just getting negatives out of the way. This is a truly deep cider, with deep tannins and a really deep, long aftertaste. I am not joking when I call this a 'no frills' cider. It doesn't attempt to be particularly balanced - it has stacks of character and flavour (and really isn't that much like anything I have reviewed on here in all honesty). I would call it a gutsy cider. All flavour and sod the finess:-)

Dry is pretty accurate. Its bone dry in fact. Next time I may go for a medium or medium dry. Now that is a bad thing to admit!

The aftertaste is a tiny bit odd; probably due to the cider apple varieties used. However, it is deep.

The label calls this stuff 'scrumpy'. As a scrumpy, it is very high quality - no faults other than a tiny bit of oxidisation. However, it is a scrumpy. And if that is what New Forest Cider is trying to produce, then 10/10. It seems to me to be a full juice, unfiltered, un mucked about with cider made solely from cider fruit.

It is surprisingly easy to drink, considering its alcoholic content.

Snakecatcher scored 75/100. I guess it would have got even more if it weren't for the oxidisation.

New Forest Vintage Kingston Black Cider

OK, here is a cider that is a little different from a traditional English cider. The question is, does it compete with French cidre? Well, there are a few interesting points to make about this.

First of all, it depends what you have in front of you. Naturally sparkling (and/or sweet) cider comes in several shapes and sizes - champagne method, bottle contitioned 'bouche' and keeved are probably the main methods. These are often found (as with the New Forest Vintage) in champagne style bottles (strong glass with deep concave bottom) Reading around this, two things can be said. Firstly, the French have only been doing it since the 1960's (forget where I read that but either in the CAMRA 'Cider' book or in Simon Mckies new 'Craft Cidermaking for Ciderists'. Secondly, a few people have now suggested that the champagne bottle is actually an English invention of the 16th century to contain sparkling cider (e.g. James Crowdens 'Ciderland').

I am persuaded by this argument although it is clear that the French adopted the method for cidre more recently than UK cider producers seem to have re-adopted it. However, it is sufficient to reconsider what I have been calling the 'French style'.

So how does the New Forest KB Vintage stack up against other sparkling ciders?

First thing I note is that it is not perfectly clear - the result of a naturally carbonated cider which has stirred up the yeast at the bottom. As a result, the first whiff is a little yeasty. However, this is a real. full juice cider that has gone through a second fermentation in the bottle... there really isn't much control over yeast without freezing the neck (as in champagne).

It also smells smoky; a sign that it is indeed matured and 'vintage'. I think this delicate quality is lost with ciders that are filtered and pasteurised... more the shame for them, but it is nice to find.

Now, bear in mind what I have said before about not being a fan of single varieties. Kingston Black is accepted as the best (or most likely) candidate for an SV cider. Here it works well: it is drying in the mouth and fruity with an acidic note at the back end of the mouthful. This lasts and makes up the aftertaste. All the way through, it is smoky and delicate.

I know. I haven't mentioned the bubbles... I always mention the bubbles:-) Well, the fizz is quite high on pouring, but dies off quickly and lifts the cider gently.

I probably only have two problems with this cider. A tiny bit of yeast and the slightly off balance taste. In a crafted cider using a single variety I can forgive both. I have to say I am a little surprised with it as Kingston Black ciders are normally dry to the bone unless they are sweetened.

Its really a high quality drink full of character... I'll bet this doesn't taste the same next year! 85/100 and a silver apple for New Forest Cider.